It's pretty easy. You just clean the place you want to apply the vinyl,
then wet the vinyl and boat with a little soapy water, peel the back off
the vinyl and slide it into place. Then a quick squeegee to get the water
out from underneath, and you peel the outer layer of paper off after 1/2 hour.
When it was done, I was very pleased to step back and look
at the handiwork and see Rhapsody's name proudly emblazoned for all to see.
Todd who created our New Full Screen & Eisenglass Enclosure
Todd from San Diego Canvas
came in the middle of the price range, but I got to see some of his other work
before committing, and the work was of the highest quality, so I selected
him. Although I need a few more pictures to show you, the work was well
done and exactly what I wanted.
The entire cockpit can be enclosed with a set of seven really nice screen panels,
which will keep the skeeters at bay, and yet will allow a breese to flow thru
as well. In addition, there is a full set of duplicate "eisenglass" panels
which can be mixed and matched with the screen panels to create a clear enclosed,
rain-proof patio. Finally, in addition, there are canvas (Sunbrella) covers that
can be affixed to either the eisenglass or screen panels to provide shade, privacy,
and for closing the boat up when we're gone.
One of the things that I had on Mandala that was noticably
absent from Rhapsody when I bought her was some way to lift the outboard motor from the dinghy
up onto the stern rail where it is kept. You don't really want to be lugging a 50-80lb motor
up and over by hand (lest you drop it in the water!), so I selected a Saint Croix Motor Lift
to solve that problem.
1. Motor Lifts 2. Pulpit Rail Supports 3. Extended (custom) base
I purchased it from The Dinghy Doctor
when I purchased a new dinghy and motor (below).
But because I was mounting it in a non-standard location, I also had to contact the manufacturer
and have them send me an extended bottom tube. I purchased various rail hardware locally in town,
and came up with the mounting solution shown above in the photographs. I also modified the supplied
bracket so that the lift could be permanently mounted. The lift can be stored
for rougher passages, but I drilled holes and use quick-pins to keep it together while
sailing (see details in photos).
Once I had installed the Motor Lift, I took quite
a bit of time coming up with a good solution to mount a BBQ on the boat.
Idecided on a round one rather than a rectangular one, as it maximizes the
cooking surface and utilization of heat for a given size. I created a mount
that can swing out when I want to use the BBQ, keeping the smoke
and drippings out of the cockpit. Yet, when not underway, the BBQ swings
back in to tuck securely between two rails of the stern pulpit.
I drilled and tapped the hole in the mount so that a thumb screw can be
tightened to secure the BBQ in either place. The other nice thing about this
installation is that I plumbed it permanently into the main house LPG tanks.
This required a Y junction, a valve, a low pressure regulator, and a couple of
new thru hulls. Also, should the house tanks run out of gas,
I got an adaptor that
will allow me to run the house and/or BBQ off the little green tanks, of which
I stock about six in reserve. One more note about the LPG in general. After
living on the boat for over 6 weeks now, cooking virtually all dinners
on the boat, and heating the morning coffee etc, I have yet to use the
first one of our two tanks, so I'm hoping that our two, when full,
will last about 3 months under
regular usage.
The AIS Reciever (the black box in the upper right corner of the above photo)
is essentially a dedicated VHF radio that listens to a special channel for
encoded messages. When it receives one, it converts it to NMEA 0183 (a serial
protocol) and sends it out over a pair of wires. The chartplotter has an NMEA 0183
input, and knows how to interpret these messages to display the ship's icon
on the screen, with the ability to click on it and get more information
about the ship. This functionality is of great use. Without it one would
be limited to actually seeing the ship or seeing it on the radar display as
an unidentified blob. In the rain or fog one might never even see a ship that
is bearing down on the boat, and radar can fail and/or be ambiguous at times. With
AIS one gets very specific information about the ship and where it is going,
which can then be used to correlate to the radar and visual observations. And knowing
the name and/or call sign of the ship means one doesn't have to send out stupid
messages over the radio like "Big ship off our port beam this is the little sailboat
off your starbord bow" ... which could be anyone anywhere and no-one knows who
is refering to whom. Instead one can say something like "SS Titanic, this is SV Rhapsody
off your starbord bow" and they will know we are talking specifically to them.
Click on photos to see bigger pictures1. Chartplotter Showing an AIS Ship Icon 2. Move Cursor over Icon to get Basic Info 3. Detailed AIS Info
In the above series of photographs, first the Chartplotter is showing the icon
(the grey triangle) for a ship, which shows us where it is and basically
what direction it is moving. In the second picture, I have moved the cursor over the icon,
and the Chartplotter shows us the basics ... the ship's Heading and Speed,
and distance from us. In the third photo, I have clicked on the ship's icon and have gotten a
dialog box showing detailed information about the ship, including
the Name ("Raven"), it's radio Call Sign (WUT9940) it's length, beam,
and draft (97, 30, and 13 feet, respectively), and even it's destination
(San Diego) and what kind of boat it is (Fishing). You can see
how helpful this would be, eh?
I also had to add an active Antenna Splitter (black box in bottom right of above
photo), since the AIS reciever shares the antenna with our VHF radio, and would be burned
up when we transmitted on the VHF (at 25 watts of power). The splitter senses the
VHF transmission and temporarily
unhooks the AIS so it is not fried by the pulse of transmitted power over the
antenna.
Finally, I also had to add a couple of other doo-dads to get everything that
I already had hooked up. The old NMEA/Seatalk splitter on the boat was burned
out (not functioning), so I replaced it with a new one (black box, center top
of above photo). It converts the GPS signal from a
Raymarine specific format (which the chartplotter understands) to standard
NMEA 0183 so that it can be channelled to our VHF Radio for DSC (Digital
Selective Calling Capabilities). What this amounts to is that I fixed the
"Panic Button" on the VHF, so that if one presses it, it will automatically
broadcast a Mayday every minute or so with our current position to all other boats within
25 miles ... and their radio will start beeping like mad and show our
position until they acknowledge the message. This means that in a true
emergency, I wont have to stand there and repeat a Mayday message over
and over while I am also trying to save the boat, deploy the liferaft,
etc. Just press the Panic Button and get on with saving your skin!
Finally, I also re-wired and re-positioned the Seatalk Junction Box (white
box in upper left of above photo).
This hooks all the various Raymarine instruments (the GPS, the Autopilot,
the Wind and Speed Sensors) together.
1. Inflatable Man Overboard Pole 2. Throwable Inflatable Man Overboard Vest
Inflatable Man Overboard Pole in Action
When I got Rhapsody, she came with an old-fashioned man
overboard pole (a big fiberglass stick with a float).
You are supposed to toss this overboard if someone falls off,
and it provides a better visual indication of where the person
is than a head bobbing a few inches above the water (imagine
trying to see someone low in the water in 6-8 foot waves).
Then one day, I decided to take it off (when working on the
full enclosure), and I was surprised how difficult it was.
It took me about 10 minutes to get the darned thing off!
Clearly it would not be too useful in a real emergency
situation.
So I decided to replace it with a
Plastimo
Inflatable Man Overboard Pole, which, in addition to taking
less room and deploying far more easily, also includes
a light at the top, and an integrated inflatable life
jacket.
All you do is toss the white cannister over the side
and it immediately inflates and the light goes on.
Mustang Throw Stick in Action
At the same time I decided to get the
Mustang Throw Stick. The advantage of this item is that you can
really heave it ... as far as 75 to 100 feet. When it hits the water
it inflates immediately into a life vest. I keep it in it's protective
plastic sleeve directly over the starboard helm, so that one could grab
it and throw it without even leaving the helm.
Of course, I also have a slew of other MOB items, inlcuding
a Lifesling Rescue System, Lifevests, and
Throwable Cushions, but I think these two items are
a very worthwhile addition to our safety equipment inventory.
1. New Rodes (300 x 5/8 + 250 x 1/2) 2. New Fortress Anchor
Lest you think Rhapsody is "under-anchored" now that I got rid of the
2nd Bruce, I'd like to take a moment and describe the rest of the
anchors on board Rhapsody.
For our normal day-to-day rear anchor, there is a 10 lb Fortress
with 30' of 1/4" chain and 200' of 1/2" nylon. This small, light
setup will be used to keep the boat pointed into the wind when in
anchorages where other boats have two anchors out. I also
have a spare 13 lb Danforth that can replace the Fortress
should I lose it for some reason.
As a spare front or rear anchor, there is a 20 lb Danforth,
with 40' of 5/16' chain and 250 of 5/8" nylon. This anchor
is nominally large enough to use as a main anchor, and is
plenty big for a rear anchor. It could also be used as
a 2nd anchor up front if we wanted to try Bahamian anchoring,
etc.
And finally, as a storm anchor, or as a replacement for the bow
anchor should it get lost, there is a huge 45 lb Danforth with 50'
of chain and 320' of 3/4" nylon. Althought it would be a bit of
pain to get it out of the anchor locker and deploy it, this anchor
is capable of being the main anchor on a 65' boat, and is more
than enough to replace the Bruce should we lose it for some reason.